Harbor Country is Not Where You Think
When friends who lived in Southwestern Pa. for years invited me to visit them at their new digs, I was somewhat hesitant at first.
It was a fairly long way from home, and I balked at the idea of spending much time in — Indiana.
But the more they told me about the area a few miles north of the Indiana border called Harbor Country, the more interested I got. Sandy, beautiful, wave-splashed beaches and immense sand dunes, charming small towns, lots of lighthouses to explore and photograph, a slew of fine and casual dining eateries that appeal to a broad spectrum of tastes, their inducements to visit and explore neighboring southeastern Michigan went on and on.
And when they told me Chicago was a short, one-hour train ride away, perfect for a day trip or two, I was hooked.
Harbor Country, a 35-mile stretch of Lake Michigan coastline sometimes referred to as “The Hamptons of the Midwest” and “Chicago’s Riviera,” acts as an escape valve for stressed out Chicagoans.
Nine unique small towns line the shoreline and are especially busy during the summer when those who enjoy fresh water versions of ocean beaches arrive. Each town has its special charm and allure. Harbert, for instance, was once the home of writer Carl Sandberg, who penned several books there, including the Pulitzer Prize-winning “Abraham Lincoln: The War Years.”
In my short three-day visit, I explored mainly the towns of New Buffalo and Three Oaks. Besides the former having the harbor with largest number of boat slips (1,100) on the eastern shore, nearby Grand Beach has three Frank Lloyd Wright houses and close to 50 Sears and Roebuck cottages.
I began my stay with a morning visit to Michigan City, Indiana, home to the Old Lighthouse Museum. Indiana’s only lighthouse was first constructed in 1837, rebuilt in 1858 and remodeled in 1904. Today the lighthouse is a museum with artifacts owned by the local historical society.
The museum has two floors of display areas devoted to lake shipwrecks, including the Eastland Disaster, which claimed the lives of 844 passengers, early photos of area and hundreds of related lighthouse and navigation artifacts. Docents are also on hand to answer questions and guide visitors up the corkscrew staircase to the cupola, great for taking photos of the lakefront. 100 Heisman Harbor Road. Phone (219) 872-6133 or https://www.mchistorical.org.
A little further north in the town of Sawyer, Warren Dunes State Park boast some of the world’s best fresh-water sand dunes, some of which, namely Tower Hill, rise to a height of 260 feet. Climbing to the top of the highest can be quite a trek as the sand keeps slipping below your feet that make it seem like two feet forward, one foot back. You’d think that coming down would be easier, but remember, the great dune is steep, which makes the going quite challenging.
Visitors like to hike to the top of the dune at sunset to watch the sun sink into the lake and try to catch a glimpse of Chicago, 60 miles to the west.
For the less hearty, the park stretches for three miles along the lakeshore and offers six miles of hiking trails through a variety of habitats. 12032 Red Arrow Highway. Sawyer. Phone (269) 426-4013.
While not located on the lakefront, which is a few miles away, the charming hamlet of Three Oaks is the cultural hub of Harbor Country. Walking down tony, tree-lined Elm Street is a stimulating feast for the eyes with its string of art galleries, antique stores, boutique shops and the restored, vintage Vickers Theater, now more than 110 years old. The venerable theater screens popular, foreign and independent films as well as documentaries.
For another classic experience, drop into Drier’s Meat Market at 14 S. Elm. The market, which has been a butcher shop in continuous use since shortly after the end of the Civil War, specializes in smoked meats cured in its own 100+ year old Smokehouse.
Famous customers have included Carl Sandburg, Larry Hagman, Mayor Daley of Chicago, the Hormel Family and Roger Ebert, while memorabilia collected over the years adorn the walls from top to bottom.
Housed in a refurbished 1800s Featherbone and Corsets Factory, Journeyman Distillery specializes in grain to glass artisanal whiskies, gin and vodka. Visitors can take a tour of the distillation process, dine at the Staymaker Restaurant, try their skill on Welter’s Folly 18-hole putting green, modeled after the golf course at St. Andrew’s in Scotland, and end the day by catching a live performance at the Acorn Center for the Performing Arts. 109 Generation Drive in Three Oaks. Phone (269) 820-2050.
For a place to dine, T-Bones is located at 1110 Lakeside St. in La Porte, Indiana, on the waterfront with splendid sunset views over the lake known for its steaks. I ventured off the beaten track by ordering a fall-off-the-bone lamb shank, preceded by a dozen firecracker shrimp spiced with Thai chili sauce. Wine by the bottle is half off on Wednesday. Phone (219) 324-4192.
For dessert, if you’re touring around the New Buffalo area, stop in at Oink’s Dutch Treat for its legendary ice cream with fifty different flavors including exotics like Michigan Pot Hole, a chocolate base with chocolate fudge swirl and chocolate fudge cups and Cow Tippin’, a vanilla base with a caramel swirl and Rolos.
The ice cream treats, however, are only half the draw as the highly decorated shop is full from floor to ceiling of thousands of pig and nostalgic ice cream memorabilia. 227 W. Buffalo St. Phone (269) 469-3535.
For those planning a visit to Harbor Country, the Chamber of Commerce publishes an annual area guide that includes things to see and do including beach and lake-focused activities.
The guide includes trail maps for wine, beer and spirits lovers and antique collectors and almost everything else needed to plan a visit. Harbor Country is also part of the Lake Michigan Circle Tour, which features more than 100 lighthouses on both sides of the lake, Phone (269) 469-5409 or www.HarborCountry.org.